297:Saturday 7th April 2018

After several weekends of getting rained off, I bit the bullet and bought a pop-up car tent. Mary and I did a trial run yesterday and found that the side panels were like a big sail or kite and real difficult to put up. I chose not to use the side panels this time, but if I had all the tie-downs stretched out, it may be possible. Anyway guess what... It didn't rain, not a spot until after I had finished and had dinner. It did keep the sun off though.
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Today's job was to finish fitting the air ride front height sensors. I did the rears at my friend and neighbour Luke's workshop on a 2 post lift and as I needed to run cables under the length of the car. Today's wiring was much simpler and all the work was under the wheel arches, so I could do this with a jack and some axle stands.
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I drilled 2 holes and mounted an L bracket to the lower wishbone. I fixed the height sensor link rod to the L bracket and with the strut at full extension I marked the position of the other end of the link rod. I then evacuated the air from the strut and jacked it up until the car started lifting and marked the other end of the link rod again on the wheel arch. I measured between the marks and the difference was 50mm (this is not the full height as the bracket was mounted about half way between the wishbone hinge point and the end where the strut connects). I then marked half way between them as this is where the link rod needs to be so I could mount the sensor in the midway position with the arm half way. I connected the sensor to the link rod and set it with the arm half way and set the jack so the link rod end was also at the halfway point. I marked the top and bottom of the sensor and where the holes were, then took sensor spacer mounting plate and used this to mark the holes. I drilled the holes with a small drill as a pilot for the self tapping screws that are used to mount the sensor. I ran the screws in on their own first to cut a thread, then mounted the sensor on the mounting plate to the wheel arch. Did the same on the other side, connected the wires, then set about calibrating everything. The valve block processor has a built in calibration routine that you can set automatically or manually. I tried the auto calibrate first and it took ages pumping the suspension up and down and waiting for the compressor to refill the tank etc. At the end of the calibration I got min height errors on the rear sensors. Next I tried automatic pressure calibration and manual height calibration. After another round of ups and downs, I got to set the min and max heights and then some more up and down to finish the calibration. It's quite fiddly trying to set the limits to a particular pressure as each push of the buttons makes the strut you are adjust jump 2 or 3 PSI each time. This also resulted in minimum height errors on the rear again. So for the last attempt, I did manual pressure calibration and height calibration. It took me about 20 minutes to complete, but it is tip top now. First trip was to the end of my road and back. I used the mid point setting and ran over some bumps and small kerbs, and superb, no donking. I am a happy bunny today. I had a fiddle with some of the presets to put them at the percentage heights I chose instead of the calibrated 25, 50, 75% settings. Now I have what I expected from the air ride and now I can start tidying everything else up so I can start showing it with pride. Zoom in on the photo below to see the detail of the sensor, link rod and bracket etc.



296: Monday 2nd April 2018

I have been delinquent with my posts recently. I notice the last post was October and have made a few change since then. After destroying the DC-DC converter, I bought a new and improved one. This has a 1kW output at 14.0v, so just like a car alternator. Now when I power on, I get my battery gauge reading half way and it just stays there. I ran power steering, fan, lights and the air ride compressor all at the same time and it didn't vary. Cost was about £230 by the time I had it shipped from Hong Kong. I am really pleased with the way it performs. I had many Iota DLS55s and they all broke eventually.

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I mounted the remote for the air ride system onto the left side of the dash. It is well illuminated and along with the 2DIN Android head unit, JLD404 Intelligent Ah meter and the bespoke Probatron battery monitoring touchscreen display it is starting to look like KITT. 
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I have been trying to get the air ride system to work better as I get a horrible loud donk noise like someone hitting an anvil with a hammer from the rear when the ride is set high or low as the struts reach their end of travel. With a 300kg  battery in the trunk it does this quite easily. Getting the car to ride half way for normal driving depends of a lot of factors like how stiff the struts are, ambient temperature, how many people in the car etc. When it was set half way, no donk noise (except for huge bumps). I took the plunge and bought the height sensor kit for the system. This will get past all the factors and will sit the car half way and keep it there when I set it up. The air suspension has 5 preset buttons on the remote. The top and bottom are fully up and down respectively, The three in between are so the user can program 3 different ride heights for different driving situations. I have set these for cruising (low), normal driving (medium) and speed bumps (high). The picture below shows the left rear height sensor fitted and connected. I have run the cables and tied them up so they are in the front with the air ride controller. I borrowed my friend Luke's workshop with 2 post lift so I could get right under the car. I started to get too many back, and shoulder pains. So I didn't get to fit the front ones. I have ordered a pop up tent to put on my driveway so I can work on my car without having to wait for good weather. That should come by the weekend so I can make some brackets and mount the front height sensors. The tent I have ordered is 4.5 x 3m (15 x 10 feet), so it will completely cover my car, and has 4 sides so I can easily get it in and out and make space all around. I am looking forward to this now. I have also fixed the rear bumper structure to the skins by drilling and screwing through. I covered the screw heads with filler, sanded them smooth and sprayed some primer. I was getting some rust bubbles appearing on both rea wheel arches, so I ground it back, ran a wire brush tool through it, treated with Jenolite, filled, sanded and sprayed this with some primer. I have ordered some red paint in a rattle can so I can go over these repairs. I shall get a proper painter to tidy up my work. Bodywork is my least favourite part of working on cars. I can never get it right...