Showing posts with label EV. Show all posts
Showing posts with label EV. Show all posts
146: Friday 4th June 2010
I looked into the function of the power steering auxiliary contact on the motor controller. There were 2 connectors labelled as auxiliary outputs, one was a supply for a speed control potentiometer and the other was a 120v output for controlling a contactor. Unfortunately the Probatron has a 12v electric power steering system, so this cannot be used directly. I went on eBay and found a relay with 120v coil and had it sent to me. I wired the the contacts of this relay in series with the other control line for the power steering relay and now the steering pump switches off when the motor is not turning. This on it's own is not sufficient as every time you come to a standstill then the steering goes tight, but fortunately the controller has a programmable delay timer built in, so you can set the time delay after the motor comes to rest and before the output switches off. I tried a few different settings and ended up on level 3 (5 seconds). So now when I come to a stop, 5 seconds later the power steering pump switches off. I found that I noticed it was switching off just at the point where I would normally think about switching it off myself using the flip switch, and sometimes earlier. Good thing is I don't have to remember now and when stuck in traffic ques I won't get the power drain of the pump running continuously.
63: Saturday 7th November 2009
Well I said I would probably need a comic strip to describe how the drive goes together. Now that I have all the parts and some time here it is:
----
The previous post showed the motor bearing spacer and key being fitted. On the hub there are 2 grub screws to lock the taper to the shaft. These were tightened using an Allen (hex) key.
----
Next the motor shaft adapter was added. I had to bolt this from under the hub. There was a collar around the motor bearing that stopped the bolts from going through straight. Raising the adapter up and inserting the bolts half way made this possible, then the adapter sat on the hub and the bolt heads were clear of the collar. After this the bolts were fully tightened. It is normal practice that when something is secured with several bolts or screws to put all the bolts in loose before tightening any of them. Also when tightening to a flat surface, tighten the bolts in a sequence that goes from side to side and tighten them a-bit-at-a-time so that it pulls down evenly this will prevent any wobble and unnecessary stress on any of the bolts.
----
With the shaft adapter fitted the outer adapters were added to the motor that were used to secure the motor body to the gearbox body and provide the correct distance for the flywheel to sit correctly with respect to the clutch actuator. The photo shows the outer ring placed on the motor.
----
Next the outer adapter plate was added. This had the holes to fix to the gearbox in it. I made sure it was lined up so the the motor electrical connections were at the top of the motor as the motor controller will be mounted on some bracketry above the motor. The four bolts were tightened to secure both parts of the adapter to the motor.
----
Next the flywheel was added. This had eight bolts to fix it on and of course they were tightened in sequence to pull it down evenly.
----
Next was the clutch. The clutch friction plate was positioned central on the flywheel, then the clutch pressure plate. A quick check was made to ensure the clutch was still centred. This can be aligned using a clutch alignment tool, but I have the experience to do this 'by eye' having fitted many clutches in my time. Another check is to look at the clutch plate around the edges and it should be in the same place wherever you check it. On this there are 6 places you can see the clutch around the edges. It was all fine and I was happy that it was centred.
----
Next was to fit the gearbox on. I had the motor standing on it's end for this and put the gearbox down onto it. The fiddly bit is always getting the gearbox shaft through the clutch plate and at the same time not knocking the clutch actuator as this is a fairly loose fit until it meets the clutch pressure plate. A couple of wiggles and twists and it dropped on fairly easily. The 'straight through' bolts were fitted and the nuts added loose. The 'threading' bolts were then added. It took a few taps with a hammer and a wooden block to shift it over slightly (less than 1mm) then all the bolts went in. I would not hit the gearbox directly with a hammer as this would do 2 things; potentially it could crack the gearbox, and it would damage the lovely coat of red paint I spent ages brushing on (remember the quiet weeks). As I am fitting the motor and gearbox separately, I need to take the gearbox back off. I fitted it this time to check that everything lined up. I gave the flywheel a spin through the old starter motor hole and the were no noises or grinding, so I was happy.
----
The previous post showed the motor bearing spacer and key being fitted. On the hub there are 2 grub screws to lock the taper to the shaft. These were tightened using an Allen (hex) key.
----Next the motor shaft adapter was added. I had to bolt this from under the hub. There was a collar around the motor bearing that stopped the bolts from going through straight. Raising the adapter up and inserting the bolts half way made this possible, then the adapter sat on the hub and the bolt heads were clear of the collar. After this the bolts were fully tightened. It is normal practice that when something is secured with several bolts or screws to put all the bolts in loose before tightening any of them. Also when tightening to a flat surface, tighten the bolts in a sequence that goes from side to side and tighten them a-bit-at-a-time so that it pulls down evenly this will prevent any wobble and unnecessary stress on any of the bolts.
----
With the shaft adapter fitted the outer adapters were added to the motor that were used to secure the motor body to the gearbox body and provide the correct distance for the flywheel to sit correctly with respect to the clutch actuator. The photo shows the outer ring placed on the motor.
----
Next the outer adapter plate was added. This had the holes to fix to the gearbox in it. I made sure it was lined up so the the motor electrical connections were at the top of the motor as the motor controller will be mounted on some bracketry above the motor. The four bolts were tightened to secure both parts of the adapter to the motor.
----Next the flywheel was added. This had eight bolts to fix it on and of course they were tightened in sequence to pull it down evenly.
----Next was the clutch. The clutch friction plate was positioned central on the flywheel, then the clutch pressure plate. A quick check was made to ensure the clutch was still centred. This can be aligned using a clutch alignment tool, but I have the experience to do this 'by eye' having fitted many clutches in my time. Another check is to look at the clutch plate around the edges and it should be in the same place wherever you check it. On this there are 6 places you can see the clutch around the edges. It was all fine and I was happy that it was centred.
----Next was to fit the gearbox on. I had the motor standing on it's end for this and put the gearbox down onto it. The fiddly bit is always getting the gearbox shaft through the clutch plate and at the same time not knocking the clutch actuator as this is a fairly loose fit until it meets the clutch pressure plate. A couple of wiggles and twists and it dropped on fairly easily. The 'straight through' bolts were fitted and the nuts added loose. The 'threading' bolts were then added. It took a few taps with a hammer and a wooden block to shift it over slightly (less than 1mm) then all the bolts went in. I would not hit the gearbox directly with a hammer as this would do 2 things; potentially it could crack the gearbox, and it would damage the lovely coat of red paint I spent ages brushing on (remember the quiet weeks). As I am fitting the motor and gearbox separately, I need to take the gearbox back off. I fitted it this time to check that everything lined up. I gave the flywheel a spin through the old starter motor hole and the were no noises or grinding, so I was happy.
08: Wednesday 13th May 2009
Picked up the taperlock and hub from the post office collection place. It fits like a glove. I phoned a friend to arrange for him to look at the job of lightening and balancing the flywheel and mount the hub to it.
07: Sunday 10th May 2009
Started quite late doing odd jobs today. Removed clutch and flywheel, engine mount and took out the vehicle speed sensor. Located the connector under the bonnet, but broke the retaining bolt, so I had to dril and tap a new bolt thread taking care not to get any metal shavings in the gearbox. Needed a taperlock hub to continue mounting the flywheel and clutch. I decided not to use regen to start with so I can change gears. I was warned not to change gear with regen as the sudden change in speed can pop the MOSFETs in the controller. I want to work out the best ways of driving before deciding about switching regen on. I am still waiting for an explanation from the controller manufacturer.
06: Saturday 9th May 2009
Mission; to seprate the gearbox from the engine and drain the oil.
I was determined to keep the intermediate shaft in the gearbox to retain the oil. Hoisted the engine up to remove the bottom bolts. I took off the small splash plate and decided in order not lose it I put it back on loose with one bolt. Lowered the engine down and removed the top 4 bolts and started wiggling it. After half an hour of pulling heaving and wiggling I realised the splash plate was holding it on. One sharp tug and I nearly fell over as it came off real easy. Unfortunately the intermediate shaft came out along with a load of oil. I quickly lifted the gearbox round to the front of the garage and put it on it's end. I placed the gearbox on a raised trolley, took out the drain bolt and drained the oil into a bowl. Then I noticed oil trickling down the driveway and found that the bowl had a split in it, so I put the bowl in a bucket and put a cd cake lid under the last trickle. After some contemplation I noticed a puddleforming around the bucket, that also had a split in it. How unlucky am I? Found another bucket and with almost a whole roll of heavy duty kitchen towels managed to get most of the oil up. So much for my plans not to spill oil. So now the garage stinks rancid of gear oil. Mission accomplished (sort of).
I was determined to keep the intermediate shaft in the gearbox to retain the oil. Hoisted the engine up to remove the bottom bolts. I took off the small splash plate and decided in order not lose it I put it back on loose with one bolt. Lowered the engine down and removed the top 4 bolts and started wiggling it. After half an hour of pulling heaving and wiggling I realised the splash plate was holding it on. One sharp tug and I nearly fell over as it came off real easy. Unfortunately the intermediate shaft came out along with a load of oil. I quickly lifted the gearbox round to the front of the garage and put it on it's end. I placed the gearbox on a raised trolley, took out the drain bolt and drained the oil into a bowl. Then I noticed oil trickling down the driveway and found that the bowl had a split in it, so I put the bowl in a bucket and put a cd cake lid under the last trickle. After some contemplation I noticed a puddleforming around the bucket, that also had a split in it. How unlucky am I? Found another bucket and with almost a whole roll of heavy duty kitchen towels managed to get most of the oil up. So much for my plans not to spill oil. So now the garage stinks rancid of gear oil. Mission accomplished (sort of).
04: Wednesday 6th May 2009
Today the motor arrives. Came home from work and there it was on my driveway in a box, on a pallet. After spending about 10 minutes with a knife removing the plastic wrapping and various shipping documents I finally go to open the box to reveal..........even more packing plastic. That removed, I am now the proud owner of an ADC FB4001 motor hurrah.
02: Sunday 3rd May 2009
3rd May 2009.... Today the engine strip out starts. I have the pot box for the throttle and DC-DC converter. This week the ADC FB4001 motor should arrive. The Zapi H3D controller, Zivan NG3 charger, Zapi programmer, Battery Discharge Indicator, direction control, cables and lugs should all arrive in about 2 weeks. The controller is being made up on a heat sink with the contactors and fuse etc. This will all be tested before it is sent. Paid about £160 for labour, but I thought it was worth it as it will be tested as a unit then I just need to hook up the motor, batteries, BDI, potbox and direction switch. Haven't sourced the batteries yet, more research to be done.
First step, remove the bonnet. The battery was removed, but the battery box bolts were all rusted in. Two came out but the third had a damaged head so I had to pull the box off the bolt by force.
Disconnecting the wires and pipes was fun and games. I felt like I was helping a cow give birth putting my arms up the back of the engine pulling connectors off. I think the exhaust was tightened by Goliath's big brother. I couldn't face trying to undo the cross member that was trapping the exhaust pipe, so tomorrow I will try some release oil on the exhaust bolts and if that doesn't work then I will saw it off.
Just the exhaust and the power steering, undo the mounts and it's ready to lift out.
01: The Blog is with you...!
It has taken me some time to get round to doing this blog. I started in May, but I have had the Probe for 3 years now while I have been researching and saving up.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)