Showing posts with label bev. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bev. Show all posts
146: Friday 4th June 2010
I looked into the function of the power steering auxiliary contact on the motor controller. There were 2 connectors labelled as auxiliary outputs, one was a supply for a speed control potentiometer and the other was a 120v output for controlling a contactor. Unfortunately the Probatron has a 12v electric power steering system, so this cannot be used directly. I went on eBay and found a relay with 120v coil and had it sent to me. I wired the the contacts of this relay in series with the other control line for the power steering relay and now the steering pump switches off when the motor is not turning. This on it's own is not sufficient as every time you come to a standstill then the steering goes tight, but fortunately the controller has a programmable delay timer built in, so you can set the time delay after the motor comes to rest and before the output switches off. I tried a few different settings and ended up on level 3 (5 seconds). So now when I come to a stop, 5 seconds later the power steering pump switches off. I found that I noticed it was switching off just at the point where I would normally think about switching it off myself using the flip switch, and sometimes earlier. Good thing is I don't have to remember now and when stuck in traffic ques I won't get the power drain of the pump running continuously.
63: Saturday 7th November 2009
Well I said I would probably need a comic strip to describe how the drive goes together. Now that I have all the parts and some time here it is:
----
The previous post showed the motor bearing spacer and key being fitted. On the hub there are 2 grub screws to lock the taper to the shaft. These were tightened using an Allen (hex) key.
----
Next the motor shaft adapter was added. I had to bolt this from under the hub. There was a collar around the motor bearing that stopped the bolts from going through straight. Raising the adapter up and inserting the bolts half way made this possible, then the adapter sat on the hub and the bolt heads were clear of the collar. After this the bolts were fully tightened. It is normal practice that when something is secured with several bolts or screws to put all the bolts in loose before tightening any of them. Also when tightening to a flat surface, tighten the bolts in a sequence that goes from side to side and tighten them a-bit-at-a-time so that it pulls down evenly this will prevent any wobble and unnecessary stress on any of the bolts.
----
With the shaft adapter fitted the outer adapters were added to the motor that were used to secure the motor body to the gearbox body and provide the correct distance for the flywheel to sit correctly with respect to the clutch actuator. The photo shows the outer ring placed on the motor.
----
Next the outer adapter plate was added. This had the holes to fix to the gearbox in it. I made sure it was lined up so the the motor electrical connections were at the top of the motor as the motor controller will be mounted on some bracketry above the motor. The four bolts were tightened to secure both parts of the adapter to the motor.
----
Next the flywheel was added. This had eight bolts to fix it on and of course they were tightened in sequence to pull it down evenly.
----
Next was the clutch. The clutch friction plate was positioned central on the flywheel, then the clutch pressure plate. A quick check was made to ensure the clutch was still centred. This can be aligned using a clutch alignment tool, but I have the experience to do this 'by eye' having fitted many clutches in my time. Another check is to look at the clutch plate around the edges and it should be in the same place wherever you check it. On this there are 6 places you can see the clutch around the edges. It was all fine and I was happy that it was centred.
----
Next was to fit the gearbox on. I had the motor standing on it's end for this and put the gearbox down onto it. The fiddly bit is always getting the gearbox shaft through the clutch plate and at the same time not knocking the clutch actuator as this is a fairly loose fit until it meets the clutch pressure plate. A couple of wiggles and twists and it dropped on fairly easily. The 'straight through' bolts were fitted and the nuts added loose. The 'threading' bolts were then added. It took a few taps with a hammer and a wooden block to shift it over slightly (less than 1mm) then all the bolts went in. I would not hit the gearbox directly with a hammer as this would do 2 things; potentially it could crack the gearbox, and it would damage the lovely coat of red paint I spent ages brushing on (remember the quiet weeks). As I am fitting the motor and gearbox separately, I need to take the gearbox back off. I fitted it this time to check that everything lined up. I gave the flywheel a spin through the old starter motor hole and the were no noises or grinding, so I was happy.
----
The previous post showed the motor bearing spacer and key being fitted. On the hub there are 2 grub screws to lock the taper to the shaft. These were tightened using an Allen (hex) key.
----Next the motor shaft adapter was added. I had to bolt this from under the hub. There was a collar around the motor bearing that stopped the bolts from going through straight. Raising the adapter up and inserting the bolts half way made this possible, then the adapter sat on the hub and the bolt heads were clear of the collar. After this the bolts were fully tightened. It is normal practice that when something is secured with several bolts or screws to put all the bolts in loose before tightening any of them. Also when tightening to a flat surface, tighten the bolts in a sequence that goes from side to side and tighten them a-bit-at-a-time so that it pulls down evenly this will prevent any wobble and unnecessary stress on any of the bolts.
----
With the shaft adapter fitted the outer adapters were added to the motor that were used to secure the motor body to the gearbox body and provide the correct distance for the flywheel to sit correctly with respect to the clutch actuator. The photo shows the outer ring placed on the motor.
----
Next the outer adapter plate was added. This had the holes to fix to the gearbox in it. I made sure it was lined up so the the motor electrical connections were at the top of the motor as the motor controller will be mounted on some bracketry above the motor. The four bolts were tightened to secure both parts of the adapter to the motor.
----Next the flywheel was added. This had eight bolts to fix it on and of course they were tightened in sequence to pull it down evenly.
----Next was the clutch. The clutch friction plate was positioned central on the flywheel, then the clutch pressure plate. A quick check was made to ensure the clutch was still centred. This can be aligned using a clutch alignment tool, but I have the experience to do this 'by eye' having fitted many clutches in my time. Another check is to look at the clutch plate around the edges and it should be in the same place wherever you check it. On this there are 6 places you can see the clutch around the edges. It was all fine and I was happy that it was centred.
----Next was to fit the gearbox on. I had the motor standing on it's end for this and put the gearbox down onto it. The fiddly bit is always getting the gearbox shaft through the clutch plate and at the same time not knocking the clutch actuator as this is a fairly loose fit until it meets the clutch pressure plate. A couple of wiggles and twists and it dropped on fairly easily. The 'straight through' bolts were fitted and the nuts added loose. The 'threading' bolts were then added. It took a few taps with a hammer and a wooden block to shift it over slightly (less than 1mm) then all the bolts went in. I would not hit the gearbox directly with a hammer as this would do 2 things; potentially it could crack the gearbox, and it would damage the lovely coat of red paint I spent ages brushing on (remember the quiet weeks). As I am fitting the motor and gearbox separately, I need to take the gearbox back off. I fitted it this time to check that everything lined up. I gave the flywheel a spin through the old starter motor hole and the were no noises or grinding, so I was happy.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)