----Once the paint was dry my wife and I loaded the batteries in the trunk then I connected them together with copper straps. I made the two ends for the cables and connected these too. With the Anderson connector separated I checked the voltage on the terminals and checked that there was only a trace voltage and high resistance to the body of the car. All o.k. there. I connected the Anderson connector and checked the system voltage again, it was about 124v. So the batteries were only about half charged. I tried the key to bring the controller on and the discharge indicator lit up, but when I click the key round to the third position to bring in the 120v line contactor, the controller ancillary fuse blew. It was a 10A fuse, so I replaced this with a 13A one and it did not blow this time. With the wheels still off the ground, I moved the throttle lever and the motor then ran. I then put the gearbox into first gear and watched the wheels turn backwards. I isolated the supply and swapped the armature connections to the motor, then it went forward. As all the voltages were low, the PAS pump was not running and I still need a vacuum switch for the brakes. I took it down onto the wheels and gave it a little run, but it was almost impossible to drive without power steering. Also The heater wasn't working so the screen was misting up and I couldn't see where I was going. Fortunately I had only gone a few yards on my driveway, so I just took it back and parked up. I am pleased that it drives, but I have some snagging to do. I found the DC-DC converter was not working and the heater switch works opposite, so off is on and on is off. After tracing this there was a funny smell, but this was just some dust on the heater and when I put the blower on the this cleared through the vents into the car, lovely! Still quite a bit to do, but I have had a quick test drive.
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